Taipei After Hours

Wall Street Journal, July 30, 2010

Taipei, TAIWAN -- Taipei is more an eating city than a drinking city. You won't find here the raucous public drunkenness of Tokyo, the hip watering holes of Beijing's restored hutongs, or the alcohol-fueled debauchery of Bangkok.

What you will find is a culture in love with food, and the pursuit of food -- in all kinds, shapes and sizes, but especially snacks (xiao chi). Drinks are often an afterthought.

That's not to say there's no booze culture. For wealthy male Taiwanese movers and shakers, serious drinking is tucked away in private, high-priced clubs and karaoke halls packed with nubile staff. Linsen North Road, though hard-hit by the economic downturn and an expat exodus, still caters to the thirsty -- carving out a strip of Japanese-style hostess and piano bars south of Nanjing West Road, and Filipina-staffed hostess bars in the former U.S. military's R&R "Combat Zone" further north.

Western-style lounge bars and cookie-cutter hip-hop clubs have sprung up in recent years, too, especially in the sleek new Xinyi shopping district in eastern Taipei that's clustered around the landmark Taipei 101 skyscraper. Taiwanese are justifiably proud to boast all the same luxury brands as Tokyo, Paris and New York, and Xinyi is where Taipei flaunts how far it's come -- from a garbage-strewn developing-world town with nightmarish traffic to a clean, neon-washed and brand-savvy metropolis.

But at night, the city's soul is still in its crowded night markets; its narrow, dark side alleys; its corner fruit stands; and its incense-choked temples, where the clacking of wood divination blocks
mixes with cell-phone rings. So when the lights go down, to discover the real Taipei, give Xinyi a pass and head west, to the old city.

6:30pm: Wanhua (Monga)

Taipei has vaulted headlong into the 21st century -- but someone forgot to tell Wanhua.

This is the heart of old Taipei, still barely beating -- a commercial hub dating back to the early Qing dynasty that's far past its prime. It's an old person's neighborhood, a slice of the Taiwan of
yesteryear, full of crumbling beauty and earthy Taiwanese culture but faintly embarrassing to well-educated, upper class Taiwanese. Wanhua is the polyester-clad Taiwanese great-aunt who spits in public, never learned how to use the Internet, and tells you you're fat to your face.

The neighborhood got a boost recently from a coming-of-age gangster movie titled "Monga," after the old name for Wanhua. Now, the seedy charms of this former thieves' bazaar, turned second-hand market, is luring more tourists -- both foreign and domestic.

Start at the Longshan Temple subway stop. Turn right after coming up the escalator, walk a few meters, and it's like traveling 30 years back in time. The park and underground shopping mall are worthy of Fellini: groups of gnarled old men playing Chinese chess, middle-aged women in motorized wheelchairs belt out hackneyed karaoke with a Taiwanese twang, fortune tellers show off photos of celebrity customers and birds ready to peck out your fate (they pick slips of paper with their beaks), 'nakashi' bands entertain drunk retirees, a down-at-the-heels septuagenarian tries to grasp a Hello Kitty doll with a mechanical pincer at a glowing grabber machine.

Check out Longshan temple, then exit and take a left and then another immediate left to cut through pungent Herb Alley. Cross the street to the temple of the King of Hell. On the other side of the temple, you'll come to the newly restored, historic street of Bopiliao. It's Taiwan's answer to the hip, restored hutongs of Beiijing; a fragrant lane dedicated to the wood-and-paper-lantern nostalgia of small-town 1960s and 1970s Taiwan.

Now it's time to get down to the serious business of eating. Retrace your steps to the narrow markets, especially the Guangzhou Street night market. The idea here is to graze; moving from stall to stall, while chewing on your latest plastic-bag-wrapped treat with the help of a wooden skewer. Try the ren bing (NT$50), a Taiwanese-style jumbo spring roll, packed with dried tofu strips, radish, carrots, crushed peanuts and sprouts.

Dart down Snake Alley (the covered Huaxi Night Market), perpendicular to Guangzhou Street, for the snake-gutting shows, and -- if you dare -- to down a snake blood-and-sorghum liquor cocktail (it's supposed to be good for men, especially). Also on offer: "three-cups" field rat, turtle, and snake soup -- as well as sex toy shops and several stores offering foot massages so excruciating they've been known to make grown men cry.

Make sure you stop for a mango ice (NT$100) at the popular Lungdu Ice and Juice Shop, on Guangzhou Street near the entrance to the night market.

8pm: Changan Road, central Taipei

If you're scared of street-stalls or just prefer a sit-down meal, beat a retreat to central Taipei. Head to the standby Shin Yeh, which serves Taiwanese favorites like oajian (oyster pancake, NT$280) and sauteed sea clams with ginger (NT$295) in a lively setting not far from the Linsen North Road "Combat Zone." Efficient staff whisk dishes from the kitchen, and the noise reaches a dull roar as the alcohol flows.

Another excellent and quieter option is Jiu Fan Ken, where you'll find down-home Taiwanese cooking in a classy, old-Taiwan atmosphere of wooden antique furniture and slow-turning ceiling fans. The small joint, an old favorite of Japanese tourists and pro-independence politicians, closed briefly after its previous owner passed away last year, but has reopened by popular demand, with a slightly different look.

Try the fong rou (NT$350), a chunk of fatty pork slow-cooked to an almost custard-like consistency, and topped with a cilantro garnish. Other favorites here are the five-flavored-fish (wu wei yu, NT$480) -- a fried fish in a sweet red sauce -- and duck strips.

At Jiu Fan Ken you can also sample the island's sudsy pride, Taiwan Beer, served out of blue-and-white bowls. Or if you prefer more company, head to the Taiwan Beer bar, just ten minutes' walk away. It's a vast beer hall in a converted warehouse, where large groups of
Taiwanese revelers imbibe and celebrate with signature green mini-kegs of Taiwan Beer at picnic tables.

Also not far from here, and well worth checking out, is the 1914 Huashan Culture Park. It's a sprawling former winery complex that's been tastefully converted into an artsy, dimly-lit complex of cafes, boutiques, art galleries, the live music hall Legacy, and classy pizza and pasta joints.

9:30pm: Zhongxiao East Road, Dunhua road intersection

Hop in a cab or take the MRT's blue line a couple stops to this throbbing center of Taipei nightlife. It's a prime destination for the beloved Taiwanese pastime of "guangjie" -- slow-paced strolling, window-shopping and snacking. This nameless 'hood is the haunt of stylish twenty- and thirty-somethings, older scenesters who wish they were still that age, dandies, hip-hop kids in trucker hats, camouflage or Bathing Ape-wear, and la mei ("spicy girls") in body-hugging dresses and stiletto heels.

Check out the eye-candy from a good people-watching vantage point, visit a Taiwan-style teahouse in the strip on Lane 181, Alley 7, sample some pomelo or other locally-grown fruit at a corner stand, or try one of the hip lounge bars like 2046. It sports wicker furniture on an outside patio; glass bead curtains, plush chairs and moody lighting within, and serves up cool cocktails like the Honey Paradise (fresh apple juice, Southern Comfort and honey, NT$300).

To find out where Taiwanese flock at night instead of bars, walk a few blocks south and check out the 24-hour Eslite bookstore on Dunhua South Road, a favorite haunt of night-crawlers, book-lovers and Hong Kong tourists. Most nights the aisles and marble tables are packed with young Taiwanese soaking in the latest business fad, thumbing through travel magazines or devouring American and European bestsellers in translation.

10:30 pm: Anhe Road. Serious drinkers will want to retire now to Anhe Road, Taipei's premier lounge bar and wine bar strip, with a saloon, club and a few quirky watering holes thrown in for good measure. One of the first clubs here, and walkable from the Eslite bookstore, is the elegant Champagne, which serves up a cool champagne-and-lychee liqueur cocktail in a classy, glittering setting; it also does a super-sweet lychee Mojito (NT$300).

Further south and just off of Anhe Road (a 15-20 minute walk, or brief cab ride), pop in to China White to sample a truly diabolical concoction: the Tai Ji (NT$350). It's a stomach-battering blend of Kahlua, triple sec, Korean soju and 80-proof vodka, garnished with cinnamon and set alight along with a flaming absinthe garnish. Also popular here are Lemon Drops, served with a lime wedge.

Midnight, take your pick: Serious club-hoppers can head back to Zhongxiao East Road to hit Luxy, a standby of Taipei nightlife that's still going strong, with a steady diet of electronica, hip-hop, special shows by gyrating "Luxy dancers" and bottle-juggling bartenders, and cavernous dance floors with plenty of elbow room. Other nightclub options like Barcode, Primo and Room 18 are located further east in the Xinyi district.

But for pure dumb fun, Carnegie's -- just across from China White -- still can't be beat. Some long-time expats will groan and recoil at the name, as the Taipei incarnation of this pub chain is a notorious meat market with rowdy, drunken revelers spilling into Anhe Road late at night. But on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, it's hard to find a better, more expat-friendly party, though definitely one geared toward those a bit long in the tooth.

On a good night, Carnie's, as expats call it, continues Wanhua's Fellini-esque theme with amateur dancing on its long, brass-railed bar, in front of a towering wall of booze. Sip your drink and feast
your eyes, if you dare, on the 50-something woman gyrating on the bartop in lingerie; the elderly gay queen shaking his booty, a group of Malaysian stewardesses attempting a pole-dance without the pole, and a pot-bellied, balding and be-spectacled European businessmen, well into his seventh Corona, working off his jetlag with jerking, a-rhythmic motions that at times resemble dance moves. By this stage, you might be ready to join them.

Late night, Fuxing South Road: To end your night like in true Taiwanese style, it's imperative to eat. An early-hours snack, if administered correctly, can help blot out the shameful memory of whatever happened at Carnegies, soak up alcohol and stave off a crushing hangover (that goes double if you've had the Tai Ji at China White).

Try one of Taipei's signature congee joints on Fuxing North Road, such as No Name Congee Snacks, open until 6 a.m. Select a few small plates like bamboo shoots (NT$50), sliced beef with yellow chives (NT$60), and cucumber with red pepper (NT$35), served with a bowl of congee
(the Chinese answer to oatmeal) with sweet potato chunks. Some like to dip bites of food in their congee; others dump everything in their bowl, mix and slurp away.

Now you're ready for the Sandman -- and if you're a true Taiwanese, you're already thinking about where to get breakfast.

Mentioned in this article:

Lungdu Ice and Juice: Guangzhou Street #168, +886 (0)2-2308-3223

Shin Yeh: ShuangCheng Street #34-1, +886 (0)2-2596-3255

Jiu Fan Keng: Changan East Road Section 2, #172-1, 2F, +886
(0)2-2775-3317, tw.myblog.yahoo.com/ninefankan, amyanty@yahoo.com.tw

Taiwan Beer Bar: Bade Road Section 2, #85, +886 (0)2-2771-9131

1914 Huashan Culture Park, Bade Road Section 1, #1,
www.huashan1914.com (Includes Legacy, +886 (0)2-2741-7065,
www.legacy.com.tw)

2046: Zhongxiao East Road Section 4, Lane 205 #24, +886 (0)2-2711-5589
(MRT stop: Zhongxiao Dunhua)

Eslite Bookstore: Dunhua South Road Section 1, #245, 2F +886
(0)2-2775-5979, http://www.eslite.com/ (MRT stop: Zhongxiao Dunhua)

Champagne: Anhe Road, Section 1, #75, +886 (0)2-2755-7976

China White: Dunhua South Road Section 2, #97-101, 2F (just off Anhe
Road in the Modern Mall), www.chinawhite.com.tw,
info@chinawhite.com.tw, +886 (0)2-2705-5119

Luxy: Zhongxiao East Road Section 4, #201, 5F, www.luxy-taipei.com,
+886 (0)955-904-600 (MRT stop: Zhongxiao Dunhua)

Primo: Zhongxiao East Road Section 5, #297, www.club-primo.com, +886
(0)2-2760-5885 (MRT stop: Yongchun)

Carnegies: Anhe Road Section 2, #100, www.carnegies.net, +886 (0)2-2325-4433

No Name Congee Snacks: Fuxing South Road Section 2, #130,
www.no-name.com.tw, +886 (0)2-2784-6735

Original site

Taipei's street food

City walk: a tour of Taipei's street food

Wall Street Journal, April 24, 2009

Taipei boasts a wide variety of scrumptious, regional Chinese cuisines and a few down-home specialties, all of which stem from the island's history.

Take one part local food tradition, which shares much with southeastern Chinese fare and favors fresh seafood, especially oysters. Add a strong dash of Japanese flavor (like wasabi), culled from 50 years of Japanese colonization that ended in 1945.

Then mix in some of China's finest cooking traditions from Chongqing to Shenyang (think Sichuan-style gong bao ji ding (宮保雞丁-- kungpao chicken -- and northern China-style beef noodle soup) brought here by the Mandarin-speaking Kuomintang elite when they fled the mainland, along with their cooks, in the late 1940s.

The result: contemporary Taiwanese food.

For a city with a reputation among some foodies for having some of the world's best Chinese food, an eating tour of Taipei is highly appropriate. But it's not for the faint of heart, or small of stomach.

In fact, were you to actually consume all the food and drink on this itinerary, you'd feel more like a nap than a walk. Consider yourself warned: Nibble at the suggested stops, don't fill up. And pick and choose dishes according to your taste, appetite and endurance.

9 A.M. DOUJIANG AND YOUTIAO

For breakfast, start your stroll at the Taipei Fullerton, a boutique hotel on Fuxing South Road. From the hotel, turn left and cross Fuxing South Road. Soon, you'll hit a small strip of doujiang (soy milk, 荳漿) restaurants.

Head for the first one on the corner: Yonghe Doujiang Da Wang (永和 荳漿大王, Yonghe Soy Milk Emperor) at No. 102, next to a fire station. It takes its name from the suburb, Yonghe, where the original restaurant was located. Today, Yonghe-style breakfast joints are famous across the Chinese-speaking world.

The quintessential Yonghe-style breakfast is doujiang and youtiao (油條)-- soy milk and fried bread sticks. The soy milk comes cold or hot, spooned up from big vats near the entrance. If you want a more substantial breakfast, add the turnip cake with soy-based sauce (luo buo gao, 蘿蔔糕), a pancake-and-egg combo (shao bing jia dan), and crisp cakes (su bing), lightly baked, hollow thin cakes with sugar, sesame or peanut paste spread on the inside. You should be able to walk away with a full stomach for well under US$3.

10 A.M. AN DONG MARKET

From the breakfast place, turn right and continue south down Fuxing South Road. Take a right on Lane 148, Fuxing South Road (Taipei's side lanes are named after the roads they branch off).

Check out the betel-nut stand near the corner, and try some if you dare. This mild intoxicant is a favorite in Taiwan, India and some parts of Southeast Asia (but not mainland China). Working-class types here swear by the stuff, and you can tell a betel-nut fan by the telltale red stains around the mouth.

Across Taiwan, especially outside major cities, "betel nut beauties" -- 20-something females in microscopic outfits -- attempt to lure buyers to their roadside stands. But in Taipei, you're more likely to find a cranky middle-aged man or smiling granny selling the nuts. If you try it, bite or clip off the rind of the nut, then chew it like gum -- don't swallow it and be sure to spit out the juice, otherwise you're likely to get sick to your stomach. A small bag of nuts costs $1.50.

Continue walking down Lane 148 until you reach the An Dong market on your left, at No. 75 Rui An St. Here's your chance to check out a traditional Taiwanese market. Many are losing business to supermarkets, but they aren't extinct yet. Check out the butcher and the fruit stands. You'll also find shops selling "ghost money," paper that's burned for good fortune and to appease the gods or wandering spirits.

Leave the market and cut across Rui An Street to Lane 180, Rui An Street. There's an old-fashioned tea shop called Lao Ji Zi on your right, at No. 5 Lane 180. This is run by the Tseng family, who own tea fields in Taiwan and on the mainland.

Big metal canisters store their crop: oolong tea picked from Alishan, gaoshan (高山, high mountain) tea from Nantou County, and some much-prized puer tea, picked from trees in China's Yunnan province. The half-jin (500-gram) tins of tea make great gifts; a basic oolong costs $9, a tin of the gaoshan variety costs about $60. Say hello to Mrs. Tseng, who runs the shop while her husband tends to the fields in central Taiwan.

12 P.M. DA AN PARK

Lunch time. As you leave the tea shop, turn right and continue west on Lane 180, Rui An Street, which turns into Lane 151, Jianguo South Road.

The restaurant at No. 53 Lane 151 on your right is Mei Xiang La Mian Wu (open 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch, and 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. for dinner). Order the "clerk's pulled noodles" (xiao er lao mian in Mandarin), a light Chinese-style lunch. You'll get a pile of noodles with a generous dollop of minced beef in sauce, garnished with scallions and cilantro. Mix up the noodles and sauce before eating, then slurp away. This northern Chinese dish was popularized here by mainlanders who came in the late 1940s. A big bowl will cost you $2.20; a small bowl, $1.75.

After lunch, take a long walk through Da An Park. This 26-hectare patch of green is Taipei's answer to New York City's Central Park. On weekends, it's packed with rollerblading kids, dog-crazy Taipei urbanites walking their canines and bicyclists.

You'll enter on the east side of the park across from a public library. Make your way through to the southwest corner of the park -- you can take the shaded jogging path on your left, which runs along the edge of the entire park. The exit is across from a Sizzler steak house.

From the park exit, cross Xinsheng South Road, take a left and follow the road south. You'll come to the Wistaria Tea House (No. 1, Lane 16). This famous Taipei teahouse has recently re-opened after a long renovation.

Back in the days of martial law (1949 to 1987), democracy activists gathered here over pots of oolong tea to strategize. Now, it's an obligatory stop for local tea-lovers. The shop boasts a wide variety of Taiwan- and mainland-grown teas, served in a cozy, Japanese colonial-era setting, with low tables, tatami mats and partitions, as well as a no-shoe policy in some rooms.

Try the Bai Hao or "Oriental Beauty" oolong ($9) -- grown with the help of katydid (an insect related to a grasshopper) saliva. (The tea tastes better than it sounds.) Or have a sip of some Dong Ding oolong ($8) grown in central Taiwan. Show-offs can shell out $90 for the "Dragon and Horse Tong Qing Puer," a 1920s-vintage puer tea.

2:30 P.M. XIAO CHI STANDS

Heading west -- take a right as you exit Wistaria -- you'll hit two of this area's most popular xiao chi stands, or street-food stalls. Both usually have long lines, so bring a friend, a book or a lot of patience. (If you don't want to taste these foods here, there are clean, well-lighted restaurants later on in the walk.)

First, try the turnip cake at the stand at the corner of Heping East Road and Wenzhou Street (closed Sundays). One cake costs 75 U.S. cents. Taipei foodies swear by this stuff, and are willing to wait in nerve-straining lines to get their fix.

Next, order the pan-fried dumplings in the Shida Night Market -- it's called a night market, but food is served from the early afternoon through to the wee hours of the morning. Weave your way over to Longquan Street, and look for Xu Ji Sheng Jian Bao at No. 24, a food stall famous for this kind of dumpling. You can try just one for 20 cents, but most people buy five for 90 cents.

Exit the Shida market and backtrack your way north on Longquan Street -- you'll hit Yongkang Street after a leisurely 20-minute walk. This street boasts typical Taiwanese xiao chi, but in nicer surroundings than a typical night market.

Hao Ji Mei Shi Zhuan Mai Dian, on the west side of the street (No. 1, Lane 10), serves southern Taiwanese xiao chi -- local favorites include tu tuo yu gen, a hearty soup with chewy, breaded lumps of fish, and crispy oysters with pepper (in the local Taiwanese dialect, Minnan, this dish is called oasu; in Mandarin, it's ke zi su). A small bowl of the soup costs $1.50 and a small dish of oasu runs $3.

Heading north on the same side of Yongkang Street, you'll hit the restaurant Yongkang Kou (No. 1, Lane 6). Here, if you dare, sample two of Taiwan's most famous dishes, stinky tofu or chou doufu ($1.30) for a small serving), which lives up to its name, and oysters in a broth with vermicelli-like noodles (oamisua in Taiwanese, $1.15 for a small bowl; $1.60 for a large one).

Now, cross to the other side of Yongkang Street, turn left (north), and look for Tu Hsiao Yueh (No. 9-1 Yongkang St.).

Here you can sample southern Taiwanese-style minced pork noodles (danzi mian), either dry or in soup. A small serving costs $1.50. Wash down your noodles with the island's standby brew, Taiwan Beer (台灣啤酒, "Taiwan pijiu" or "Taipi" for short); one bottle costs $2.65.

5 P.M. DIN TAI FUNG

No culinary tour in Taipei would be complete without a stop at the restaurant Din Tai Fung for a taste of its Shanghai-style pork-soup dumplings (xiao long bao), served with sliced ginger and soy sauce.

Guidebooks swear by them; food snobs say they're overrated. Decide for yourself. One serving costs $5.30 and includes 10 dumplings.

To get there, continue north on Yongkang Street from the stinky-tofu joint, then hang a right on Xinyi Road. Just a few doors down is the original location of this now-famous chain restaurant (No. 194 Xinyi Rd., Section 2). Be warned, though: Hordes of tourist groups mob this place at peak mealtimes, so be prepared for a wait. Of course, you may need time to digest the other snacks you've just had.

6 P.M. NATIONAL CHIANG KAI-SHEK MEMORIAL HALL

Finish your tour with a brisk 15-minute walk west down Xinyi Road to the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. This monument to the dead autocrat (he ruled Taiwan from 1949 to his death in 1975), which opened in 1980 in a sprawling 25-hectare plaza, includes a grand concert hall at the other end of the square. It's best viewed at night, when it's illuminated by ground lights, and groups of middle-aged Taiwanese come to line dance to U.S. country-and-western songs on the plaza.

After a good rest and a break from eating, try Taiwan's famous pearl, or "bubble" milk tea -- a shaved ice-and-tea confection served with tapioca balls and jumbo-size straws. The place to get it is Chun Shui Tang, the central-Taiwan store that invented it in late 1980s, and there's a branch in the ground floor of the National Concert Hall on the north side of the memorial plaza (the shop closes at 8:30 p.m.). A small glass costs $2.20; a large glass that's big enough for two costs $4.40.

6:45 P.M. KINMEN KAOLIANG LIQUOR

If you can make it in time, run by the Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor store, a short walk from the Memorial Hall plaza's southwest corner (No. 3, Roosevelt Rd., Section 1; open to 7 p.m. weekdays and Saturdays).

Sample the shop's famous Taiwanese sorghum liquor -- a fiery concoction brewed on Kinmen (also known as Quemoy, a small island in the Taiwan Strait controlled by Taiwan) -- and take a gift bottle with you. There's a variety of sizes and strengths -- choose between 28-, 30-, 38- and 58-proof. You can taste a few for free before you decide, but most people opt for the high-test 58-proof variety ($15.60 for a 750-milliliter bottle).

Assuming you can still fit in a taxi, hop in one here to return to your hotel.

Original site

Sex, drugs and inner-tubes

As Laos opens to tourists, some fear it may be losing its soul. Others are merely losing their bikinis.

Global Post, January 18, 2010

VANG VIENG, Laos — Drunk Brits leer at passing female tourists. A Western tourist gets in a public shouting match with her guide.

And stoned backpackers lounge gape-mouthed in cafes, eyes glued to televisions playing looping reruns of "Friends" and "Family Guy."

Welcome to Vang Vieng, one of Laos' premier tourist destinations. Just don't call it "unspoiled."

As this Southeast Asian country opens its doors to tourism, it's facing a classic conundrum. The poor, underdeveloped country desperately wants to earn tourist dollars. But it also wants to preserve its conservative, traditional ways. Doing both may be impossible.

"It's hard to keep the balance between development and the preservation of tradition and local culture," said Thavipheth Oula, an official at the Lao National Tourism Administration, in an email. "The issue is how we can keep Lao identity while the number of tourist arrivals increases."

In the 1960s, America waged a "secret war" here against the Pathet Lao communists. Now, the country that once crawled with spooks has been invaded by tourists.

Annual tourist arrivals have tripled in 10 years, from half a million in 1998 to 1.7 million in 2008, according to numbers from Laos' tourism authority. Tourism now brings in $275 million in annual revenue, up from $80 million in 1998, making it Laos' second biggest money-maker after mining.

The key draws are the capital, Vientiane, and the temple-studded World Heritage Site, Luang Prabang. The latter's development is regulated — for example, with strict building codes. Well-preserved wats crowd up against hip, new French-Lao fusion restaurants and bars.

But Vang Vieng has no such restrictions. Instead, it's carved out a niche as a mandatory stop on the backpacker trail through Southeast Asia. And it caters to 20-something hedonists with scores of cafes, bars and riverside debauchery, making it something of a "lost city of sin" in the heart of Laos.

Vang Vieng's natural beauty is breathtaking: It sits on the Nam Song River amid jagged karst mountains.

The obligatory activity here is inner-tubing down the river. Tourists crowd onto trucks that drive them to a spot upriver from the city. By the launch site, hordes of shirtless and bikini-clad Western tourists gyrate to deafening techno music, as others hurtle into the river from rickety wooden platforms three stories high. As these two YouTube videos illustrate, it's like the underground party scene from a "Matrix" movie.

Enterprising locals have built riverside bars hawking the national pride, "Beerlao," and jerry-rigged flywires over the river. Lao touts tempt passing inner-tubers by throwing lines at them; if you're thirsty you just grab on and they pull you in.

Such attractions are a big draw for younger tourists, in particular. But they have some wondering whether Vang Vieng has lost its soul.

"Each time a young Australian woman strolls down the street in a bikini, a bearded American smokes a joint on a guesthouse terrace, or a group of Koreans tumbles drunkenly out of a restaurant, it saps a little more of the essence of a town like Vang Vieng," said Brett Dakin, the author of "Another Quiet American," a chronicle of two years in Laos working for the tourist authority.

"Tourism has contributed a great deal to communities like these: rising incomes and higher standards of living," Dakin wrote in an email. "But there is a sense that something has been lost in the process."

There's no easy solution to the problem. Oula, of the tourism authority, says restrictions on young foreign backpackers would backfire by taking away much-needed income from the local Lao who run guesthouses, restaurants and other tourist businesses.

Instead, the authority is pinning its hopes on "awareness programs" for tourists and locals. Such programs will "ask tourists to respect and strictly follow the rules, regulations, tradition and cultures of the Lao people," Oula said.

"At the same time, [we should] educate local people to maintain the Lao identity, way of life, tradition and culture and not imitate tourist behavior."

For Dakin, a little sensitivity could go a long way. There are some basics in Laos: dress conservatively (that means no bikinis and shirtless-ness in public, a suggestion posted clearly in English throughout Vang Vieng). Take off your shoes indoors. And try not to poke your camera in the monks' faces at the traditional morning alms-giving in Luang Prabang.

(See more dos and don'ts, and other information, from the tourism authority).

"It's not hard to travel responsibly in Laos, it just requires a little thought, and perhaps above all the ability to empathize," said Dakin. "Would you want your visitors acting this way in your hometown?"

Original site

Oodles of noodles

In Taiwan, it's all about the beef noodle soup. Here's how to find the perfect bowl.

Global Post, December 6, 2009

TAIPEI, Taiwan — Think beef noodle soup is just some chunks of meat sprinkled over noodles in broth?

Think again. Every foodie in Taiwan has an opinion on what makes for great beef noodle soup — and where the best can be slurped up.

Now, Taipei City has entered the fray with what it calls its unofficial "Michelin Guide" to the city's beef noodle joints. They also solicited locals' opinion on a website, and sponsored an "Iron Chef"-style cooking contest to decide who's the best beef noodle chef of them all.

It's all part of the city' plan to promote Taipei as the world's "Beef Noodle Soup" capital.

"Taiwan is well-known for its food, so we wanted to present this special item to show the world Taiwan's famous beef noodles," explained Chen Hsiu-hua, from the city's commercial office. She estimated there are up to 80 beef noodle joints in Taipei alone.

Beef noodle soup is part of Taiwan's unique culinary heritage. Before the 1940s, Taiwanese didn't eat much beef. Plow-pulling water buffalo were farmers' best friends, and too important to eat. Other beef was too expensive.

That changed when Chiang Kai-shek's Kuomintang fled here in the 1940s, after losing China's civil war to the communists. The KMT, which included much of China's upper class, brought with them master chefs from all over China. One of the dishes they brought was beef noodle soup, a northeast China specialty.

Male Taiwanese developed a taste for the dish while serving mandatory military service, explained Mr. Lin, a 60-something Taipei cabdriver and beef noodle soup fan. It became popular on military bases.

China-born chefs refined the dish in exile and created new varieties to appeal to customers. And as Taiwanese living standards rose rapidly in the 1970s and 1980s, beef became more affordable.

Chef Hong Tsai-chan, chairman of Taiwan's beef noodle association, has made beef noodle soup for more than 20 years. In an interview at one of his shops, he broke down the three essential parts of the dish.

"Choosing the meat is very important," he said. For his standard "hong shao" ("red-cooked," or cooked with soy sauce) beef noodle dish, he uses Australian beef for the big chunks, and Taiwan beef for the skinny strips.

He stews the big chunks for two hours, and roasts the thin strips in a few seconds.

"The noodles should be thick and very chewy," he continued. "Now comes the soup. We make soup with natural vegetables and fruits, cabbage, chives, carrots and white radish. Then we add some Chinese medicine — just a little bit, to stew, so that the smell will be good."

Beef noodle soup connoisseur Chang Jia-wei, 30, emphasized that the soup is the key ingredient.

"It has to smell good enough to stimulate you to want to eat," said Chang. "For many shops, the ingredients of their soup are a business secret."

Most chefs throw in star anise, a fruit often used as a spice in Chinese cooking, he said.

Chang explained the finer points of a good beef noodle soup at Niu Ga Ting, a recently opened restaurant. He discovered this shop the old-fashioned way. One day he rode by on his scooter, smelled the shop's fragrant broth, and simply had to stop for a bite.

He insists on thick noodles, which better soak up the broth. But he said that some Taiwanese, especially women, now prefer less oily "ximian" (vermicelli-like thin noodles).

Taipei's "Michelin Guide" to beef noodles was a serious undertaking. Twelve "pioneers," including Chang, canvassed the city for out-of-the way beef noodle joints. Then 32 judges fanned out in small groups across the city's shops. Netizens were also asked their opinion in an online poll.

The judges were tough — no restaurant passed muster for the elusive "five-star" rating. But several managed to nab four stars.

Then, on Nov. 22, Taipei's best beef noodle chefs gathered across from City Hall for a cook-off. Beside a stage with gyrating "spicy girls" and break-dancers, the chefs chopped, stewed and boiled away for the top prize in one of three categories — soy sauce broth, clear broth and "creative" beef noodle soup.

The winner of the soy sauce broth category, the most classic version of the dish, was a chef from Kaohsiung, Taiwan's second city.

At the awards ceremony, the head judge generously complemented all the chefs. "Actually, all of you have improved greatly since last year," he said. "The difference between the best beef noodle soups was only slight."

Can Taiwan's famous beef noodle soup catch on beyond its shores? Perhaps, but there's one small logistical hurdle: you've got to be handy with the chopsticks and ladle to easily eat it.

"That's why it's more likely to be popular with Japanese than with Americans or Europeans," said Chang, the connoisseur.

IF YOU GO:

Mentioned in this article:

Master Hong's Noodle Store. No 72, Jianguo North Road Section 2, Taipei. 02-2500-6850

Niu Ga Tang. No. 134-2, Kunming St., Taipei. 02-2331-0397

Top-rated restaurants in Taipei's 2009 Beef Noodle Soup Guidebook:

Seventy-two Beef Noodle Soup. No. 188, Jianguo South Road Section 1. 02-2752-5970

Immediate Knife-cut Beef Noodles. No. 116-3, Yanping North Road Section 3. 02-2598-0212

Old Sung's True, Good and Beautiful Beef Noodles. No. 17, Lane 137 Yanji Street. 02-2377-8866

Original site

Taiwan's island getaway

Welcome to Wang An, a windswept island far from the hustle and bustle of the rest of Taiwan. Except for those bombs.

Global Post, November 23, 2009

WANG AN TOWNSHIP, Taiwan — At his breakfast joint on this sleepy island, the mellow Mr. Hsu absent-mindedly fashioned a shrimp from a drinking straw.

"Only in a place this boring would you learn how to do this," said Hsu, plopping his finished plastic crustacean on the table.

Later, at a nearby village, two elderly women sat on a doorstep, waiting for death or dinner — whichever came first. Their faces were wrapped up in a sort of Taiwanese burka to block out the sun. "The village ends here," they said, directing me back from whence I came.

Welcome to Wang An, a windswept, 5 1/2-square-mile island in the Taiwan Strait, population 4,500. Part of the Taiwan-controlled Penghu archipelago, it's a world away from the crowded, bustling urban sprawl of Taiwan proper.

The island doesn't see too many visitors. It seems to like it that way. In the summer, speedboat-borne Taiwanese tourists pour into the pier and onto scooters for a two-hour whirlwind tour.

By the fall, Wang An reverts to its quiet hermitude. In the morning, the southbound boat arrives; in the afternoon comes the northbound. The ferries bulge with a cargo of humans, cows and pigs, a few scooters, the occasional car — and a plentiful supply of Taiwan Beer and other necessities. Aside from watching the boats load and unload, there's not much action here.

For Taiwanese, the island's claim to fame is that it's a nesting ground for the endangered green sea turtle. Signs posted along the pristine sand beaches warn of an NT$1 million ($30,000) fine and up to five years jail time for anyone who dares interfere with a female green turtle in egg-laying mode.

The mama turtles scamper up these beaches at night, dig themselves a nice hole with their flippers, pop out some 100 eggs and bury them. They check back in a week to see how things went.

Usually it's a massacre — think D-Day for green sea turtle babies. If they manage to break out of their shell and dig themselves out of the sand, a rogue's gallery of predators — fire ants, birds, snakes, you name it — awaits. Only one out of 1,000 survives to adulthood.

In the summer, volunteer college students lead night-time tours in search of egg-laying turtles, though how this qualifies as "not interfering" with them is anyone's guess.

Wang An has a colorful, if obscure, history. Supposedly the island's current name was bestowed by Koxinga (born Zheng Cheng-gong), the half-Japanese, half-Chinese pirate-turned-hero of the Ming resistance. He fought to repel the Manchurian Qing invaders who overran China in the 17th century.

Then he decided it would be far easier to oust the Dutch from their colony in Taiwan instead. While crossing the Taiwan Strait from China with his warships, he espied Wang An from another island to the south and liked its peaceful looks — thus the name, which translates as "hope for peace."

Wang An was also a bathroom break for an immortal. According to a sign at the lookout point at Tiantai Hill, the god Lu Tung-pin was crossing the Taiwan Strait and relieved himself here.

Immortals aren't the only creatures that have passed through. Wang An and nearby islets are a pit stop for all sorts of migratory birds. Most spend the summer in Korea or northeast China, then fly south to the Philippines for the winter.

West of Wang An, the tiny rocks Big and Little Maoyu are an ideal nesting ground for seabirds. They consist of towering, guano-covered basalt cliffs, unsuitable for human habitation.

A local museum said the Taiwan military once used Maoyu for target practice, but stopped amid rising respect for the environment.

Late one morning though, my hotel was rattled by three blasts. The owner said the Taiwan air force still does bombing practice using the tiny islets southeast of Wang An. So much for eco-awareness.

Original site

Fun and Games

Kaohsiung is pulling out all the stops for the World Games. After a day at the stadium, soak up the atmosphere at the city’s cool clubs, pubs and restaurants

Silk Road (Dragonair's in-flight magazine), July 2009

KAOHSIUNG, TAIWAN -- Not so long ago, Kaohsiung had little in the way of international dining and nightlife options.

What a difference a few years makes. Taiwan’s second-largest city has undergone a dramatic transformation in preparation for the World Games (16-26 July) including a makeover of the downtown Love River area and a slick new subway system.

A host of excellent new restaurants, bars and nightclubs has opened, especially in the area near the new Kaohsiung Arena, or “Giant Egg” as locals call it.

Now tourists can find top-end international cuisine along with trendy bars serving pub grub and imported beers. These newcomers complement the city’s traditional standbys – gourmet Chinese food at the city’s top hotels and the seafood eateries on nearby Cijin Island – to give visitors a wide array of choices.

And, of course, it wouldn’t be Taiwan without night markets. These hot and noisy establishments are where you can find all the local specialties, from stinky tofu to oamisua (oysters in a vermicelli-noodle broth). Liouhe Night Market off Jhongshan First Road near the old train
station is the most renowned in Kaohsiung.

The awards ceremonies for each of the 46 sports of the World Games will be held in late afternoon or early evening, so there will be plenty of opportunity to sample Kaoshiung’s dining and nightlife.

Here’s a taste of what’s on offer:

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Pasadena French Restaurant
298 Heti Road, Sanmin District
+886 7 341 1256

For high-end, elegant dining you can’t go wrong with Pasadena. European antiques and décor create an Old World setting, complemented by a superb wine selection. The menu is eclectic gourmet: favourites include beef tenderloin and duck liver with truffle sauce (NT$2,300/about HK$540) and grilled short rib with Cajun spices (NT$1,900).

Harbour Buffet Restaurant
43/F, Grand Hi-Lai Hotel, 266 Chengkung 1st Road, Cianjin District
+886 7 213 5762

Offers an all-you-can-eat buffet (NT$780) with panoramic city views. Customers can also enjoy meals with a view at the hotel’s Oriental Restaurant (12/F), Teppanyaki Restaurant (45/F) and more.

Port City Restaurant
3/F, Chinatrust Hotel, 43 Tajen Road, Yancheng District
+886 7 521 7111

Locals swear by the Hong Kong style dim sum. Try its shrimp dumplings and spare ribs.

Hola
578 Heti Road, Sanmin District
+886 7 343 3045

A rarity for Taiwan, this Spanish style restaurant serves up tapas, sangria and the rice dish paella.

Miyamaru Japanese Restaurant
16 Lingjhong Road, Lingya District
+886 7 332 5587

This favourite of Japanese tourists features sushi, sashimi and other standbys, with ingredients flown in from Japan, private dining rooms and tatami mats.

Smokey Joe’s
318 Zihyou 2nd Road, Zuoying District
+886 7 960 7715

For a more casual setting, try this Tex-Mex restaurant. Great for large groups, the fare includes tasty tacos and quesadillas as well as pasta, pizza, and smoked ribs.

Enoteca Wine Shop & Bistro
562-1 Heti Road, Sanmin District
+886 7 345 1326

If you’re craving a European-style gourmet sandwich, such as prosciutto with provolone, or imported wines, stop in at this cosy, casual eatery. It also has good pasta and salads.

The British Consulate at Takao
20 Lianhai Road, Gushan District
+886 7 525 0273

The place to go for coffee or afternoon tea with a view. This former British outpost, on a rocky promontory overlooking the sea, is now a museum with a café.

Roof Park Thai Restaurant and Bar
15/F, 165 Linsen 1st Road, Sinsing District
+886 7 241 6666

A neon-washed lounge overlooking the city where Kaohsiung’s nightcrawlers come to sip cocktails. Also serves tasty Thai-style dishes.

Foster Hewitt’s Pub & Grill
30 Wenjhong Road, Gushan District
+886 7 555 0888

An upscale Canadian-run pub near the Kaohsiung Arena. Enjoy draft beer, darts and grilled grub.

The Lighthouse
239 Fuguo Road, Zuoying District
+886 7 559 2614

A favourite watering hole and sports bar. Get your Guinness draft beer fix here (NT$220), along with Chinese and Western bar food.

Lamp Discotheque
3/F, 42 Zihciang 3rd Road, Lingya District
+886 7 269 6527

Located opposite Kaohsiung’s landmark Tuntex skyscraper, this plush nightspot is popular with younger clubbers. Regularly hosts guest DJs and theme nights.

Kenting travel guide

Kenting: Taiwan’s seaside getaway

By Jonathan Adams

(a version of this appeared in the October 2008 issue of Silk Road, Dragonair's inflight magazine)

As Taiwan’s prime seaside resort, Kenting's beaches loom large in the island’s imagination. But Kenting's nearby forest recreation areas are overlooked gems, rich with wildlife and stunning views.

“Kenting” actually refers to the entire 18,000-hectare Kenting National Park at the southern tip of Taiwan. The area combines beach relaxation and nighttime fun with raised coral forests, windswept grasslands, rugged rocky coastline and one of Asia’s top bird sanctuaries.

April through November is most suitable for tourism. The peak season for Taiwanese is July and August, but locals say early fall is the best time for a visit – it’s usually still warm enough to swim then, but without the intense heat and crowds of summer.

Most of the top resorts are clustered on the main coastal road near Little Bay (小灣). That and South Bay (南灣) are the most popular beaches, with swimming areas, jet ski rentals and other water activities. Little Bay is also the place to arrange scuba, boating, and other activities, try an agent like Hai Zhong Tian (海中天, No. 27 Kenting Road, (886) 8-886-2015-6).


At nighttime, the stretch of road near Little Bay turns into a noisy carnival. Vendors hawk seafood, barbecue, trinkets and games as Taiwanese crowds pack the main drag's shoulders. The nightlife here includes dance clubs, dance shows and roadside massages.

This part of the coastline includes Frog Rock – so named because it looks like a frog set to leap into the ocean – and the Kenting Youth Activity Center, with its restored, traditional Fujian-style courthouse homes (No. 17, Kenting Road, 886-8-886-1221-4).

But the best of the area’s daytime sights are a short car or scooter ride away. Renting wheels is essential to fully appreciate the area (see car and scooter rental information below). A good first stop is the Kenting National Park headquarters (No. 596 Kenting Rd, (886)-8-886-1321). Here you'll find exhibits on the area’s environment and history. Kenting was once home to a Japanese whaling base, and is the homeland of the Paiwan Aborigines.

Between the park headquarters and Little Bay is the entrance for the road up to the Kenting Forest Recreation Area. This features forest hiking paths, an observation tower and a stalagtite-rich “Fairy Cave.” The coral forests here were thrust high above sea level by powerful tectonic plate collisions.

Just to the east is Sheding Nature Park, one of Kenting’s highlights. The wild boar and muntjac deer the Paiwan Aborigines used to hunt still roam the slopes. Trails wind up to scenic viewing pavilions, and Formosan rock monkeys clamber down cliff faces overgrown with wind-bent trees.

In the fall, Sheding is one of the prime viewing points for watching migratory birds of prey, including the gray-faced buzzard and the Chinese goshawk. May and June are ideal for viewing butterflies and insect life, and yellow crabs clamber down from these hills in April and late fall to lay their eggs on the beach (thus the occasional “Crab Crossing” road signs).

A road winds from Sheding back down to the coast near Sail Rock or “Nixon Rock” – so named because of its likeness to the former US president in profile. This area is a great spot for snorkeling, and also includes several budget bed-and-breakfasts.

The scenic coast road continues around Eluanbi, the southernmost tip of Taiwan, and passes its lighthouse. Then it winds back up the east coast into grasslands with spectacular ocean views, before dipping down toward cliffs and dunes. Stop at Fangchueisha, a popular photo-taking spot.

In the other direction from Little Bay, to the northwest, lies Longluan Lake, a favorite spot for bird-watchers. From September to April, migratory birds like tufted ducks and egrets stop here. The area’s most pristine and relaxing beach is nearby White Sand (Baisha) beach, which has several campsites.

About a 15 minute drive up the scenic west coast road from there is Taiwan’s National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium (2 Houwan Rd, Checheng, 886-8-882-5678) This massive, state-of-the-art museum boasts a whaleshark (the ocean's largest fish, at up to 12 meters long), beluga whales and penguins.

Further north are the Shuchungshi Hot Springs, and the Shihmen Historical Battlefield. In the 1870s, the Paiwan Aborigines killed a group of shipwrecked Okinawan fishermen. In retribution, Japan sent 4,000 troops and wiped out a Paiwan army at Shimen. Now, every year in late May, descendants of the Okinawan fishermen and the Paiwan gather for a ritual feast of reconciliation.


WHERE TO STAY:

The Kenting area boasts five high-end resorts. Three – the Chateau, the Caesar Park and the Howard Plaza (886-8-886-2324) – are just off the main coast road near Little Bay. The Yoho Beach Club and Spa is further up the west coast, and the newest entry – the Leofoo Resort – is in Haikou Village, off the Kaohsiung-Kenting road (886-8-882-5765).

The Chateau: The pick of the litter is the Chateau Beach Resort (886-8-886-2345, 451 Kenting Road, ) with its prime, beachfront location. Rooms start at NT$6,000 (HKD1,540) in high season (July and August), with discounts up to 30% other times of year. Included in that price are access to a range of activities – sailing, sea kayaking, bodyboarding, snorkeling, archery, croquet and mini-golf. No motor-powered boats are allowed on this part of the beach, which makes for a more relaxing atmosphere. There's an infinity pool, kid's pool, Jacuzzi and spa.

Caesar Park Hotel: This was Kenting’s first upscale resort and still gets high marks. Rooms start at NT$9,000 (HKD2,310) in the high season (July and August) but can be as little as half that in other months and weekdays. For a bit extra the hotel boasts "Jacuzzi villas" with their own garden entrance (NT$11,000 or HKD2,825 in high season). The hotel manages a beach across the road, and provides beach umbrellas, chairs and a bar for guests. A footpath runs from the hotel, along a creek under Kenting Road, and out to the beach. There's also a large outdoor pool. (6 Kenting Road, 886-8-886-1888)

Yoho Spa and Resort: This more remote option is away from the hustle and bustle of Little Bay. But it’s convenient for the Aquarium, and near the calmer White Sand beach. For those who want personalized attention, this resort offers “Yoho Buddies” who can accompany you on outings. Rooms start at NT$6,200 (HKD1,590) on weekends in the July and August high season, NT$3,666 (HKD940) other times of year. (27-8, Wan-li Road, 86-8-886-9999).


EATING AND DRINKING:

The best dining options are at the resorts themselves. Standouts include the beach barbecue with live music at the Chateau and the Yoho Beach Resort and Spa – note that the Chateau's barbecue is available to guests only.

There are also many casual dining options on or near the main drag at Little Bay. Some include:

Warang Didi. This Kenting standby serves up spicy pan-Asian food. Try the fiery Thai-style chicken with basil and pepper, or Sichuan-style kung pao shrimp. (No. 26, Wenhua Lane, Kenting Rd, 886-8-886-1835).

Ocean Blue offers pan-Asian fare and local specialties. Try the chicken with bamboo shoots or ginger shrimp, washed down with the "Kenting Blue" cocktail of Curacao liqueur, rum and pineapple juice. (111 Kenting Road, (886) 8-886-2600, ).
Fresh seafood options are plentiful in Kenting. Try the lobster -- served up fried or steamed with garlic – at the Lunan Seafood Restaurant. (No. 193 Kenting Rd, (886) 8-886-1036, ).

GETTING THERE:

The nearest major hub is Kaohsiung. You can rent a car at the Zuoying high-speed rail station outside Kaohsiung or at Kaohsiung Airport; it's about a two-hour drive to Kenting. Rental agencies include Car Plus and Heyun Car Rental (High-speed rail station location 886-7-346-1515, airport location 886-7-807-0333).

Buses run from the high-speed rail station and the airport to Kenting (two to three hours, about NT$320).

Scooters (NT$500 or less per day) or bicycles can be arranged by your hotel, or rented from one of the many outlets in Little Bay.

Taiwan's lake escape

Sun Moon Lake

This green lake tucked in Taiwan's central mountains is one of the Chinese world's top tourist destinations. Now it's set to get a lot more crowded

By Jonathan Adams

(a version of this appeared in Silk Road, Dragonair's in-flight magazine)

Calm waters. Forested hills. Romantic, foggy twilights.

Ask any Chinese tourist where they'd most like to go in Taiwan, and Sun Moon Lake is high on the list. The central Taiwan lake is near-legendary in the Chinese-speaking world for its picturesque setting next to the island's Central Mountain range. Now, it's also increasingly popular with Japanese and other foreign tourists.

The lake's fascinating history includes Aboriginal, Japanese and Chinese chapters. The original inhabitants were Thao Aborigines of Austronesian stock. The tribe's legend has it that they followed a white deer to the lake, and settled there upon discovering its beauty. They consider Lalu Island – now just a tiny outcrop in the middle of the lake – to be a sacred spot. There are only some 600 Thao left today, clustered in a lakeshore village, and in nearby hills.

The lake's current form is a product of Japanese engineering, during their colonization of Taiwan from 1895 to 1945. The Japanese dug a 15-km underground channel from a nearby reservoir and dammed up the out-flowing Juoshuei River (濁水溪) on the lake's southwest side. This enlarged the lake to near its current size and depth (877 hectares, about 30 meters maximum depth).

The Japanese colonial influence still remains. They planted Assam black tea in the hills by the lake, and founded the original Tea Experiment Station. Arai Kokichiro was one Japanese official tasked with jump-starting the local tea industry in the 1920s. Local lore has it that his ghost still haunts the lake, harassing those who are slacking in their work. In the nearby village of Checheng a Japanese-built railroad station remains. This is the last stop on the Jiji rail line, which the Japanese used to transport sugarcane to the coast.

Then came Chiang Kai-shek and his Kuomintang regime from the mainland. The lake was a favourite getaway for Chiang, who had a guesthouse near the current location of the Lalu Hotel (the hotel still has one of Chiang's boats, and boasts a lovely trail near where Chiang and his wife used to take lakeside strolls). The Kuomintang strongman oversaw construction of the Chapel of Christ (he converted to Christianity before marrying Soong Mei-ling, whose family were devout Christians), and the Cihen Pagoda, built in memory of his mother. Chiang came to the pagoda often to pay his respects to mom, since the Cold War separated him from her tomb on the mainland.

Chiang's legacy also lives with the ever-popular "President Fish" (zongtong yu) dish. If you order it, beware: it's bone-heavy. One joke has it that Chiang said while eating the fish "there really are a lot of bones," but his servants misunderstood his thick Zhejiang accent and thought he was saying, "this fish is really delicious."

A massive 1999 earthquake changed the lake's landscape again, toppling some buildings and nearly inundating Lalu Island. Almost ten years later, the lake has fully recovered, and new hotels are sprouting up. The most dramatic is a planned US$1,000-a-night luxury hotel that is set to replace the Lalu Hotel as the lake's – and Taiwan's – most expensive. It will reportedly be built in the sail shape of Dubai's Burj al Arab hotel, and will be run by Japan's Okura management company; it opens next year at the earliest.


That's not the only new project. Investment has flooded in on the expectation of a boom in mainland Chinese tourists, and the lakeside skyline on the western side is dotted with construction sites. Currently, there's a cap of 1,000 Chinese tourists a day, but Taiwan's incoming government (which will take power May 20) expects to boost that to 3,000 a day—or more than 1 million per year—as soon as July.

Lake residents are ambivalent about the likely boom. It should boost the area's economy, providing income and jobs. But some fear it could also damage the lake's environment, trampling what's left of its pristine character under a traffic jam of tour buses and boats.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

For now, at least, the lake provides an appealing getaway for Taiwanese honeymooners and other tourists. The main clusters of activity are at Shuishi (水社) village on the lake's western shore, and the Aboriginal village of Ita Thao (伊達邵) on the eastern shore. A 30-kilometer two-lane road winds around the lake, serviced by a regular bus (8am to 5pm, one per hour, NT$100). Some hotels offer their guests bicycles, and it's also easy to rent an electric-powered bike to make the climbs easier (about NT$200 per hour, or NT$700 per day).


The chief attraction, of course, is the lake itself. Swimming is forbidden except on one day in September, when the lake hosts a mass swim (last year 22,000 people participated in 2007, though the event was marred by two deaths). Some 140 boats ply the waters, so there's no trouble finding one. These can be booked through your hotel – some of which operate their own boats – or on your own. Just go down to the pier at Shuishi and hire your own, the cost is typically US$5 to US$9 (HKD39 to HKD70) for a round-the-lake tour, or join a tour boat. Most boats stop at Lalu Island, Syuanguang Temple (玄光寺), and Ita Thao before returning to Shuishi.

At the Syuanguang Temple pier, be sure to grab one of "Granny's shiitake mushroom black tea eggs" – she's been there for some 60 years and is still going strong. In Ita Thao, local Thao put on a traditional tribal dance show at 11:20, 2:20 and 6:20 every day, and offer Thao culinary specialities like roast boar at the restaurant beside the performance space. Ita Thao is also home to the Full House Bed and Breakfast (see below).

Aside from the lake tour, there are numerous hiking trails. One popular one, the Mt. Maolan trail, leads up to the Tea Improvement Station, where you have a soothing view of the neatly arranged tea fields and lake below. It continues on to a weather station. The lakeside Hanbi trail near the Lalu Hotel is especially popular in late April and May, when the fireflies come out in droves. Another trails winds up through greenery and chirping cicadas to the Cihen pagoda – you can climb to the top for another great view, and to ring the huge bell. Adventurous souls can brave the 7-hour hike from Ita Thao village to the Great Shueishe Mountain (elevation 2,059m) and back.

The Wunwu temple (文武廟) on the northern side is a popular stop: local Taiwanese, particularly those sitting for civil service exams, come here to ask Confucius for luck. Another popular temple is the Lungeng Temple (龍鳳宮) on the lake's west side. Here, couples come to beg for good fortune in love from the "Old Man under the Moon" – a Chinese matchmaker god who binds together destined lovers with red string. He was relocated here from Lalu Island after the 1999 earthquake.

The round-the-lake bus stops near most trailheads and temples.

Near Sun Moon Lake, there are several interesting sights to see. North of the lake is Puli, a town famous in Taiwan for its good wine and beautiful women. Many tour groups, including mainland Chinese, stay here overnight as it's less expensive than lakeside hotels. You can visit the Shaohsing Winery and wine museum (219 Chungshan Road, Section 3, open daily 8am to 5pm, 886-(0)49-984-006, extension 456). Or stop at the Chung Tai Chan monastery – a huge Chan (Zen) Buddhist monastery that combines western and eastern styles in a truly unique blend (No. 1, Chung Tai Rd, 886-(0)49-2930-215). A bit farther afield – northeast from Puli and further into the mountains – are the Qingjing Farms and Lushan hot springs resort areas.

WHERE TO STAY

The Lalu: Taiwan's premier (and most expensive) hotel. No. 142, Zhong Xing Road, Shui Shi Village, Yuchi Xiang, Nantou County 555. 886-(0)49-285-5313. Rooms from NT$12,800 (HKD3,290) per night.

Finesia Hotel: a new luxury hot-springs hotel on the northern side of the lake. 23 Zhong Zheng Road, Sun Moon Lake, Yuchi Xiang, Nantou County 555. 886-(0)49-285-5500. Rooms from NT$11,000 (HKD2,825) per night.

Full House Bed and Breakfast: for a funky option, try this guesthouse in the Thao Aboriginal village of Ita Thao. No. 8, Shui Xiu Road, Sun Moon Village, Yuchi Xiang, Nantou County. 886-(0)49-285-0307. . Rooms from NT$2,100 (HKD540) per night.

WHERE TO EAT

Jindu (Golden Village) Restaurant: A unique culinary adventure in Puli, a short drive north from Sun Moon Lake. Their speciality is dishes made with local Shaohsing wine, and with betel nut flower. Group set meals start at NT2000 (HKD515), or order a la carte – try a betel nut flower speciality like cai hong ban tian hua (彩虹半天花), NT$180 (HKD46). No. 236 Xin Yi Road, Puli City, Nantou County. 886-(0)49-299-5096.

Full House Bed and Breakfast (address above): The Lins, the couple that own this charming bed and breakfast, have also invented an array of dishes featuring fresh, locally-grown fruit and other ingredients. Large groups can get 12 dishes and one soup for NT5,500 (HKD1415), couples can get 3 dishes and one soup for NT$1,600 (HKD412). Request the ci cong zhu rou (刺蔥豬肉, spicy pork cubes with pineapple, red pepper and onion).

The Lalu (address above): The hotel features three top-end restaurants: Chinese, Western-style (The Oriental Brasserie) and Japanese. Specialties at the popular Chinese restaurant include Sun Moon Lake's famous "President Fish" and the "Buddha jumps over the wall" soup. The Japanese restaurant is open to hotel guests only, Fridays through Sundays.

GETTING THERE

From Taipei and Kaohsiung: take the high-speed rail to Taichung station. From there take a cab, or take the escalator downstairs (exits 5 and 6) and look for the Nantou bus to Sun Moon Lake at post #3. Buses leave on the hour at 20 minutes past the hour; it's a 2-hour ride, NT$200 (HKD51) to Sun Moon Lake.

From Taipei, two companies run direct buses to Sun Moon Lake (4 1/2 to 5 hours): Kuokuang Bus (886-(0)2-2311-9893, NT$480, HKD123) and Green Transit (886-(0)2-2752-2988, NT$500 one-way, NT$900 roundtrip, HKD129 and HKD231).

From Taichung airport: take a taxi to the lake, or to Taichung city take a direct Ren Yeou bus from there, at 8am or 3pm (886-(0)4-2225-5166). You can also take a Nantou or Kuokuang bus from Taichung to Puli and transfer there to a Sun Moon Lake-bound bus.

The Lalu offers a pick-up service at Taichung International Airport or the Taichung high-speed rail station.